Deck 20: The Work of Waves: Coastal Landforms

Question 1

If caught in a rip current, the best thing to do is to swim toward shore.

Answer 1

False

Question 2

Beach nourishment is done only once and its effects are permanent.

Answer 2

False

Question 3

Only the topmost few centimeters of sand move on a beach from wave action.

Answer 3

False

Question 4

If the amount of sand entering a beach is less than the amount of sand leaving a beach, the beach will erode.

Question 5

Most ocean waves and coastal waves are generated by earthquakes.

Question 6

An emergent coast can form from eustasy.

Question 7

Hurricane Sandy was a major storm that struck the East Coast in October 2012.

Question 8

As they approach shore, rogue waves are called sneaker waves or sleeper waves.

Question 9

During a flood tide, sea level is rising.

Question 10

Eustasy is the gravitational equilibrium between the lithosphere and the support of the asthenosphere below.

Question 11

During an ebb tide, sea level is lowering.

Question 12

Basalt lava produces beige or tan colored beaches.

Question 13

An emergent coast can form from isostasy.

Question 14

Water motion ceases below the wave base.

Question 15

Inland reservoirs provide sediment sources that help beaches grow.

Question 16

The Sun has a stronger influence on the daily tides than does the Moon.

Question 17

Rogue waves can capsize boats out at sea.

Question 18

A coral reef is classified as an "organic" coast.

Question 19

Rogue waves are a common occurrence in the open ocean.

Question 20

Coral reefs produce white beaches.

Question 21

Mavericks are a type of coastal wave.

Question 22

Isostatic sea level changes can be caused by plate tectonics.

Question 23

For most beaches, sand accumulates during winter and erodes during summer.

Question 24

A shingle beach is composed mostly of driftwood.

Question 25

A __________ is formed when a sand bar connects an island to the mainland.

A)sandspit
B)baymouth bar
C)tombolo
D)barrier island

Question 26

Coral reefs are found only on submergent coastlines.

Question 27

Eustatic sea level changes are caused by melting of glaciers.

Question 28

A change in global sea level is called isostasy.

Question 29

In some areas, the slope of the seafloor focuses wave energy and creates large, breaking waves.

Question 30

Beach nourishment is the process in which fertilizers are dispersed on a beach to help wildlife.

Question 31

A marine terrace always indicates that a coastline was or still is emergent.

Question 32

Ultimately, the Sun's energy creates ocean waves.

Question 33

Daily tidal changes in sea level are caused by the gravitational pull of the Sun and the Moon.

Question 34

Where does the highest tidal range in the world occur?

A)in the Gulf of Alaska
B)in the Persian Gulf
C)in the Bay of Fundy in eastern Canada
D)on the southern coast of Australia

Question 35

Sand moves down the length of a beach by the action of waves.

Question 36

Centrifugal force created by Earth's revolution around a common center of mass creates a larger tidal bulge than the pull of gravity from the Moon.

Question 37

Beaches provide habitat for nesting and feeding animals, support local economies, and protect coastal development from wave energy.

Question 38

When the Moon is positioned at a right angle between Earth and the Sun, a __________ results.

A)spring tide
B)neap tide
C)low tide
D)high tide

Question 39

Quartz sand grains produce black beaches.

Question 40

Rocky coastline always indicates that a coastline is submergent.

Question 41

Black-sand beaches are composed of sand derived from what?

A)volcanic rocks
B)coral reefs
C)quartz
D)cobbles

Question 42

Which is a not a coastal beach landform?

A)sea stack
B)sandspit
C)baymouth bar
D)tombolo

Question 43

In this diagram, letter A points to what?

A)sea walls
B)jetties
C)groins
D)piers

Question 44

In the diagram, letter D points to a __________.

A)sandspit
B)lagoon
C)tombolo
D)baymouth bar

Question 45

What causes a wave of oscillation to become a wave of translation?

A)increased wind speed
B)the wave base encounters the seafloor
C)the backwash undercuts the approaching wave
D)the wavelength decreases

Question 46

Referring to Table 20.1, which type of coastline is generally found higher than 55 degrees latitude?

A)glaciers and ice shelf
B)limestone karst
C)fjord
D)ria

Question 47

When Earth, the Moon, and the Sun are aligned along the same axis, a __________ results.

A)spring tide
B)neap tide
C)low tide
D)high tide

Question 48

A __________ is a linear structure made of concrete or stone that extends from a beach into the water.

A)groin
B)jetty
C)seawall
D)sea arch

Question 49

A __________ flows parallel to the beach in the direction of wave movement.

A)longshore drift
B)wave refraction
C)breaker
D)longshore current

Question 50

Referring to Table 20.1, which is not an organic coast?

A)coral reef
B)ria
C)mangrove
D)estuary

Question 51

In the diagram, box C points to what?

A)the swash
B)waves of oscillation
C)waves of translation
D)the wave base

Question 52

The world's highest tidal range is __________ meters.

A)10.1
B)16.8
C)20.2
D)21.6

Question 53

In the diagram, letter D points to a __________.

A)wave-cut bench
B)sea stack
C)wave-cut notch
D)sea arch

Question 54

The wave base occurs at a depth of about __________ of the wavelength.

A)one-quarter
B)one-half
C)two-thirds
D)three-quarters

Question 55

In the diagram, box B shows what?

A)neap tide with first-quarter moon
B)neap tide with a last-quarter moon
C)spring tide with a new moon
D)spring tide with a full moon

Question 56

In beach environments, the __________ zone includes the surf zone and breakers.

A)offshore
B)nearshore
C)foreshore
D)backshore

Question 57

Waves that move water forward in a horizontal motion are called __________.

A)waves of oscillation
B)waves of translation
C)wave crests
D)wave troughs

Question 58

Changes in global sea level as a result of changing the amount of water in the oceans is called what?

A)isostasy
B)eustasy
C)an emergent coast
D)a submergent coast

Question 59

The average lifetime of an artificial beach is how many years?

A)5
B)10
C)20
D)50

Question 60

Which best describes the direction of sand movement in this diagram?

A)from right to left
B)from left to right
C)from shore to deep water
D)from deep water to shore

Question 61

A __________ is a human-built structure designed to protect backshore environments from wave erosion during large storms.

A)groin
B)jetty
C)seawall
D)sea arch

Question 62

Swells in the open ocean can have wave heights of __________ meters or more.

A)2
B)4
C)7
D)10

Question 63

Which is the most important wave-generating force?

A)earthquakes
B)undersea landslides
C)the wind
D)marine mammals

Question 64

In the diagram, box C shows what?

A)neap tide with first-quarter moon
B)neap tide with a last-quarter moon
C)spring tide with a new moon
D)spring tide with a full moon

Question 65

After a wave flows up a beach, it returns down the beach as what?

A)a breaker
B)swash
C)a swell
D)backwash

Question 66

Referring to Table 20.1, which type of coastline is dominated by living reefs?

A)delta
B)mangrove
C)coral reef
D)estuary

Question 67

When arches on rocky coastlines collapse, what landform often results?

A)sea stack
B)wave-cut notch
C)wave-cut bench
D)sea cave

Question 68

A recessed sandy beach is called a(n) __________.

A)wave refraction
B)headland
C)embayment
D)longshore current

Question 69

Maximum tidal ranges are approximately __________ inches on this map.

A)< 16
B)32
C)47
D)> 94

Question 70

Scientists estimate that barrier islands represent about __________ percent of all coastlines on Earth.

A)10
B)20
C)30
D)40

Question 71

In the diagram, box B points to what?

A)the swash
B)waves of oscillation
C)waves of translation
D)the wave base

Question 72

Which is not one of the three options available to address the problem of beach erosion?

A)relocate development away from the beachfront
B)pave the beach over with concrete
C)create hard structures like seawalls and groins
D)replenish the sand on the beach

Question 73

What kind of coast forms when sea level rises relative to the coastline?

A)isostasy
B)eustasy
C)an emergent coast
D)a submergent coast

Question 74

Which is not used by scientists to monitor beach erosion?

A)radar
B)photography
C)dye tracers
D)satellites

Question 75

In which lunar cycle does a spring tide occur?

A)a full Moon
B)a first-quarter Moon
C)a new Moon
D)a full Moon and a new Moon

Question 76

In beach environments, in the __________ zone, waves encounter the seafloor and slow down.

A)offshore
B)nearshore
C)foreshore
D)backshore

Question 77

A rocky prominence is called a(n) __________.

A)emergent coast
B)wave refraction
C)headland
D)embayment

Question 78

A __________ is an unbroken sandbar that forms across the mouth of a river or an estuary.

A)sandspit
B)baymouth bar
C)tombolo
D)barrier island

Question 79

In the diagram, box A shows what?

A)neap tide with first-quarter moon
B)neap tide with a last-quarter moon
C)spring tide with a new moon
D)spring tide with a full moon

Question 80

The average tidal range on Earth is __________ centimeters.

A)100
B)200
C)300
D)400