Deck 9: Changing Coasts

Question 1

All of the following criteria are used to describe the shape of a wave except:

A) crest.
B) wavelength.
C) fetch.
D) height.
E) period.

Answer 1

C

Question 2

Swells are:

A) the distance over which a wind blows.
B) waves generated by distant storms.
C) the vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave.
D) the amount of time it takes for two wave crests to pass a fixed point.
E) the rate at which a particular wave moves through the water.

Answer 2

B

Question 3

All of the following are terms used to describe how waves interacting at shallow depths except:

A) spilling breakers.
B) plunging breakers.
C) surging breakers.
D) refractive breakers.
E) breaking waves.

Answer 3

D

Question 4

Wave refraction occurs around local extensions of the coast called:

A) headlands.
B) longshore currents.
C) beach drift.
D) surf zones.
E) spilling breakers.

Question 5

Rip currents can be dangerous even to strong swimmers.

Question 6

Sea levels fluctuate between two high and two low tides each day.

Question 7

Neap tides are those that occur when the tidal range is the greatest.

Question 8

What causes tides?

A) currents that flow as fast as 15 mph
B) changes in climate due to global warming
C) changes in sun's intensity
D) tectonic plate motions that change sea level
E) influence of the Moon's and Sun's gravity on the Earth's hydrosphere

Question 9

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-crest

A) a turbulent region along the coast
B) the movement of sediments grains in a zig zag pattern along the coast
C) the lowest point on a wave
D) the peak of a wave
E) the bending of waves

Question 10

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-trough

A) a turbulent region along the coast
B) the movement of sediments grains in a zig zag pattern along the coast
C) the lowest point on a wave
D) the peak of a wave
E) the bending of waves

Question 11

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-refraction

A) a turbulent region along the coast
B) the movement of sediments grains in a zig zag pattern along the coast
C) the lowest point on a wave
D) the peak of a wave
E) the bending of waves

Question 12

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-surf zone

A) a turbulent region along the coast
B) the movement of sediments grains in a zig zag pattern along the coast
C) the lowest point on a wave
D) the peak of a wave
E) the bending of waves

Question 13

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-beach drift

A) a turbulent region along the coast
B) the movement of sediments grains in a zig zag pattern along the coast
C) the lowest point on a wave
D) the peak of a wave
E) the bending of waves

Question 14

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-Gulf of Mexico

A) characterized by large amount of calcium carbonate and corals
B) contains one of the largest subduction zones in the world
C) contains the largest delta in the U.S.
D) passive continental margin that formed due to the rifting of North America from Europe
E) an active coast and contains transform and convergent plate boundaries

Question 15

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-Alaska Coast

A) characterized by large amount of calcium carbonate and corals
B) contains one of the largest subduction zones in the world
C) contains the largest delta in the U.S.
D) passive continental margin that formed due to the rifting of North America from Europe
E) an active coast and contains transform and convergent plate boundaries

Question 16

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-Atlantic Coast

A) characterized by large amount of calcium carbonate and corals
B) contains one of the largest subduction zones in the world
C) contains the largest delta in the U.S.
D) passive continental margin that formed due to the rifting of North America from Europe
E) an active coast and contains transform and convergent plate boundaries

Question 17

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-Pacific Coast

A) characterized by large amount of calcium carbonate and corals
B) contains one of the largest subduction zones in the world
C) contains the largest delta in the U.S.
D) passive continental margin that formed due to the rifting of North America from Europe
E) an active coast and contains transform and convergent plate boundaries

Question 18

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-Florida Coast

A) characterized by large amount of calcium carbonate and corals
B) contains one of the largest subduction zones in the world
C) contains the largest delta in the U.S.
D) passive continental margin that formed due to the rifting of North America from Europe
E) an active coast and contains transform and convergent plate boundaries

Question 19

What is NOT true about barrier islands?

A) They are common along the Atlantic Coast.
B) Their origins are subject to ongoing research.
C) They are shallow, marshy inland areas protected from the ocean.
D) They are present along Florida's Coast.
E) They are largely composed of sand and gravel.

Question 20

What material is commonly found in most beaches?

A) mud
B) pebbles
C) shell fragments
D) rocks
E) all of the above

Question 21

Which of the following is NOT part of a beach?

A) near shore zone
B) swell
C) long shore bar
D) berm
E) surf zone

Question 22

When the sediment debits exceed the credits in the sediment budget:

A) neap tides happen.
B) swells occur.
C) erosion occurs.
D) longshore drift occurs.
E) all of the above

Question 23

What is a littoral cell?

A) natural compartments along coasts that have their own sediment budget
B) region within a beach where both longshore and rip currents are active
C) where waves start to break along the coast
D) waves with frothing, hooked crests and tube-like hollow spaces beneath
E) the process by which waves bend

Question 24

Shoreline recession, beach retreat, and barrier migration are all terms to describe coastal erosion.

Question 25

Coastal erosion is a costly natural hazard.

Question 26

Most sea cliff erosion occurs during storms.

Question 27

Groins and jetties can sometimes cause beach erosion.

Question 28

Where is sediment deposited along the coasts?

A) in deltas
B) in deeper water where currents are not strong
C) in estuaries
D) in bays
E) all of the above

Question 29

A hurricane has sustained winds of:

A) 5 mph.
B) 15 mph.
C) 32 mph.
D) 52 mph.
E) 74 mph.

Question 30

What is the Pineapple Express?

A) a type of tide
B) a type of ocean current that originates in Hawaii
C) a type of air current that passes over Hawaii
D) a type of long shore drift
E) a category 5 hurricane

Question 31

All of the following are types of hard stabilization except:

A) seawalls.
B) estuaries.
C) jetties.
D) groins.
E) breakwaters.

Question 32

Dune restoration and beach nourishment are examples of:

A) soft stabilization.
B) long shore drift.
C) breakers.
D) coastal erosion.
E) groins.

Question 33

What is dredging?

A) the process of deciding how funding is delegated to coastal erosion in communities
B) deposition of sediment along jetties
C) the movement of active ocean currents
D) removal of unwanted sediment
E) a type of neap tide

Question 34

Tectonic activity only causes subsidence along coasts.

Question 35

The littoral zone is a region where hurricanes create the most amount of damage.

Question 36

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-revetment

A) can lead to a significant amount of flooding along the coast
B) massive structure that withstands the full force of seawaves
C) a type of soft stabilization process
D) a lighter-duty hard stabilization method
E) a section of a beach exposed to and shaped by wave action

Question 37

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-seawall

A) can lead to a significant amount of flooding along the coast
B) massive structure that withstands the full force of seawaves
C) a type of soft stabilization process
D) a lighter-duty hard stabilization method
E) a section of a beach exposed to and shaped by wave action

Question 38

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-storm surge

A) can lead to a significant amount of flooding along the coast
B) massive structure that withstands the full force of seawaves
C) a type of soft stabilization process
D) a lighter-duty hard stabilization method
E) a section of a beach exposed to and shaped by wave action

Question 39

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-dune restoration

A) can lead to a significant amount of flooding along the coast
B) massive structure that withstands the full force of seawaves
C) a type of soft stabilization process
D) a lighter-duty hard stabilization method
E) a section of a beach exposed to and shaped by wave action

Question 40

Match the following options to its correct definition.
-beach face

A) can lead to a significant amount of flooding along the coast
B) massive structure that withstands the full force of seawaves
C) a type of soft stabilization process
D) a lighter-duty hard stabilization method
E) a section of a beach exposed to and shaped by wave action

Question 41

Describe the processes that can cause changes in sea level over historical time periods.

Question 42

Describe the different parts of a beach. What rocks and minerals are commonly found in beaches?

Question 43

What is a hurricane? How does it develop? Where are they commonly found?

Question 44

Describe how currents operate in the ocean. What are the different kinds of currents and how do they influence the coast and people living along the coast?

Question 45

What processes contribute to sediment supply along a beach? What processes contribute to erosion? Is it important to understand a beaches' sediment budget? Why or why not?

Question 46

List and describe some hazards that coastal storms bring. How can geologists help people address these hazards?