Deck 8: Waves and Water Dynamics

Question 1

The horizontal distance between two successive troughs is called the wave height.

Answer 1

False

Question 2

The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two.

Answer 2

True

Question 3

The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center (PTWC) was established in 1946 to coordinate data from seismic waves in the Pacific Ocean and around the Pacific rim to issue tsunami warnings to 25 Pacific rim nations when data suggest a tsunami is eminent.

Answer 3

True

Question 4

Tsunamis can be generated geological activity such as a sudden change in sea floor elevation such as an uplifted sea floor caused by a seismic event.

Question 5

A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20.

Question 6

A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche.

Question 7

Internal waves have never been directly observed.

Question 8

A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves.

Question 9

The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is the wavelength.

Question 10

A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker.

Question 11

A shallow water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters.

Question 12

Deep water waves move faster than shallow water waves because they are not slowed by friction with the ocean bottom.

Question 13

The speed of a shallow water wave is a function of wave period.

Question 14

Swells are examples of free waves.

Question 15

The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:

A) doldrums.
B) horse latitudes.
C) polar regions.
D) trade winds.
E) westerlies.

Question 16

Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells.

Question 17

Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction.

Question 18

A standing wave is caused by wave reflection.

Question 19

Wave speed is equal to:

A) wave height divided by frequency.
B) wave height divided by period.
C) wavelength divided by fetch.
D) wavelength divided by frequency.
E) wavelength divided by period.

Question 20

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question(s).

The lowest part of the wave corresponds to the number:

A) 1.
B) 2.
C) 3.
D) 4.
E) 5.

Question 21

All of the following are shallow-water waves except:

A) near shore wind-generated waves.
B) surf.
C) tides.
D) tsunamis.
E) All of the above are examples of shallow-water waves.

Question 22

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline, its wave height:

A) decreases and steepness decreases.
B) decreases and wavelength increases.
C) increases and frequency decreases.
D) increases and wavelength decreases
E) increases and wavelength remains the same.

Question 23

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question(s).

The crest is the portion of the wave corresponding to the number:

A) 1.
B) 2.
C) 3.
D) 4.
E) 5.

Question 24

The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to:

A) wave height.
B) wave height/wavelength.
C) wavelength.
D) wavelength/wave period.
E) wave period.

Question 25

The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:

A) water depth.
B) wave frequency.
C) wave height.
D) wave period.
E) wavelength.

Question 26

Capillary and gravity waves are named for the:

A) dominant restoring force.
B) force that creates them.
C) rate at which they travel.
D) wave dispersion.
E) wave refraction pattern they create.

Question 27

The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:

A) wave height/wavelength.
B) wave height/wave period.
C) wavelength/wave height.
D) wavelength/2.
E) wavelength/20.

Question 28

An internal wave might form:

A) at a density boundary within the ocean.
B) at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean.
C) at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor.
D) close to shore as it moves into shallow water.
E) only as a result of tidal activity.

Question 29

The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the:

A) frequency.
B) period.
C) wave height.
D) wavelength.
E) wave steepness.

Question 30

A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to:

A) the fetch.
B) wave height.
C) wavelength.
D) ½ of wavelength.
E) 1/20 of wavelength.

Question 31

The time between two successive waves is called the:

A) crest.
B) frequency.
C) height.
D) period.
E) trough.

Question 32

The fetch refers to:

A) a method of shoreline erosion control.
B) a type of wave-cut platform.
C) the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes.
D) the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level.
E) the distance over which wind blows without interruption.

Question 33

Water waves are:

A) capillary waves.
B) longitudinal waves.
C) refracted waves.
D) orbital waves.
E) transverse waves.

Question 34

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question(s).

The portion of the wave that is also known as the zero energy level is indicated by the number:

A) 1.
B) 2.
C) 3.
D) 4.
E) 5.

Question 35

Storm surges are generated by intense:

A) earthquakes.
B) high-pressure systems.
C) landslides.
D) low-pressure systems.
E) thunderstorms.

Question 36

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question(s).

The wavelength is labeled with the number:

A) 1.
B) 2.
C) 3.
D) 4.
E) 5.

Question 37

The height of a wave depends upon:

A) fetch.
B) fetch and wind speed.
C) fetch, wind duration, and wind speed.
D) wind duration.
E) wind duration and wind speed.

Question 38

The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:

A) water depth.
B) wave frequency.
C) wave height.
D) wave period.
E) wavelength.

Question 39

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.

A)plunging breaker
B)spilling breaker
C)surf
D)surging breaker
E)swell

Question 40

The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a:

A) capillary wave.
B) seiche.
C) tide.
D) tsunami.
E) wind waves.

Question 41

Rogue waves tend to occur:

A) in areas where wind belts converge.
B) in coastal areas where the ocean depth rapidly decreases.
C) in upwelling zones.
D) only in the southern ocean below 60ºS latitude.
E) where storm waves move against strong surface currents.

Question 42

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.

A)longitudinal
B)orbital
C)progressive
D)spilling
E)transverse

Question 43

Swells:

A) are waves surfers ride to shore on a surf board.
B) can produce coastal damage in a storm and contribute to storm surge.
C) combine in destructive interference to form rogue waves.
D) form from the additive effects of capillary waves.
E) are uniform, symmetrical deep water waves that form when wind speed diminishes around the margin of the ocean basin.

Question 44

Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:

A) gravity waves.
B) plunging breakers.
C) spilling breakers.
D) surf.
E) swells.

Question 45

A tsunami is considered to be a:

A) capillary wave.
B) deep-water wave.
C) reflected wave.
D) refracted wave.
E) shallow water wave.

Question 46

Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out be wavelength are called:

A) capillary waves.
B) constructive waves.
C) surf.
D) swell.
E) wind waves.

Question 47

Standing waves may be caused by:

A) constructive interference.
B) destructive interference.
C) wave diffraction.
D) wave reflection.
E) wave refraction

Question 48

In general the restoring force for waves is:

A) cohesion of water molecules.
B) gravity.
C) seismic activity.
D) surface tension of water molecules.
E) wind.

Question 49

Waves converge on headlands due to:

A) constructive interference.
B) destructive interference.
C) wave diffraction.
D) wave reflection.
E) wave refraction.

Question 50

Compare shallow water and deep water waves.

Question 51

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.

A)capillary
B)seiche
C)swell
D)tsunami
E)wind

Question 52

A wave will break when:

A) distance from shore < wavelength.
B) steepness = 1:7.
C) water depth = wave height.
D) water depth = wavelength/20.
E) wavelength < wave height.

Question 53

Examine the five words and/or phrases and determine the relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the one option that does not fit the pattern.

A)crest
B)height
C)length
D)period
E)trough

Question 54

If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?

A) gravity waves
B) plunging breakers
C) spilling breakers
D) surf
E) swells

Question 55

The initiating force for a seiche is:

A) atmospheric pressure gradient over a bay or large enclosed body of water.
B) gravity.
C) interaction of the gravity of the moon, sun, and Earth.
D) seismic event.
E) surface tension of water.

Question 56

Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation?

A) sea, surf, swell
B) sea, swell, surf
C) surf, swell, sea
D) surf, sea, swell
E) swell, sea, surf

Question 57

A tsunami may result from:

A) a large deep-water wave.
B) a storm surge.
C) an intense storm.
D) constructive wave interference.
E) tectonic activity on the seafloor.

Question 58

Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces:

A) capillary waves.
B) rouge waves.
C) smaller waves.
D) swells.
E) tsunamis.

Question 59

The R/V Spartina is cruising off the Georgia coast taking water and sediment samples when she encounters a storm. The ship's captain asks you to assist him by calculating the frequency of the waves and the wavelength. The wave speed is measured at 4 meters per minute. The wave period is determined to be 12 seconds. What is the wavelength of the storm swells encountered by the R/V Spartina?

Question 60

Distinguish between wave reflection, refraction, and diffraction.

Question 61

Describe the relationship between the following: wave height, wavelength, wave speed, and wave steepness.

Question 62

Compare and contrast wind-generated waves and internal waves. Include in your answer a discussion of the forces that generate each wave type and the properties of each wave type (size, period, wavelength, etc.).

Question 63

The R/V Sea Serpent is in the Gulf of Mexico sampling gag grouper populations when it encounters the feeder bands from a tropical storm. Assuming that the R/V Sea Serpent is in deep water, calculate the wave speed and the wavelength of the storm-generated waves. The wave period (T) is 2.5 seconds.

Question 64

Describe the formation of water waves from a still ocean surface.

Question 65

Describe what happens to a deep-water wave when it enters shallow water and eventually breaks.