Deck 8: Waves and Water Dynamics

Question 1

A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker.

Answer 1

True

Question 2

A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche.

Answer 2

False

Question 3

A wave will break when wave steepness is equal to 1/20.

Answer 3

False

Question 4

Swells are examples of free waves.

Question 5

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics.Use the information on the figure to answer questions

The portion of the wave that is also known as the zero energy level is indicated by the number:

A)1.
B)2.
C)3.
D)4.
E)5.

Question 6

A shallow water wave must form in water depth less than 100 meters.

Question 7

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics.Use the information on the figure to answer questions

The wavelength is labeled with the number:

A)1.
B)2.
C)3.
D)4.
E)5.

Question 8

A standing wave is caused by wave reflection.

Question 9

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics.Use the information on the figure to answer questions

The crest is the portion of the wave corresponding to the number:

A)1.
B)2.
C)3.
D)4.
E)5.

Question 10

Internal waves have never been directly observed.

Question 11

The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two.

Question 12

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics.Use the information on the figure to answer questions

The lowest part of the wave corresponds to the number:

A)1.
B)2.
C)3.
D)4.
E)5.

Question 13

The speed of a shallow water wave is a function of wave period.

Question 14

A wave train is caused by wave energy moving more slowly than individual waves.

Question 15

The vertical distance between the wave trough and the wave crest is the wavelength.

Question 16

The largest wind-generated waves tend to be associated with the:

A)doldrums.
B)horse latitudes.
C)polar regions.
D)trade winds.
E)westerlies.

Question 17

Wave energy is focused on headlands due to wave refraction.

Question 18

The horizontal distance between two successive troughs is called the wave height.

Question 19

The circular motion of water molecules extends to a depth that is equal to:

A)wave height/wavelength.
B)wave height/wave period.
C)wavelength/wave height.
D)wavelength/2.
E)wavelength/20.

Question 20

The speed of a deep-water wave is proportional to:

A)water depth.
B)wave frequency.
C)wave height.
D)wave period.
E)wavelength.

Question 21

Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:

A)gravity waves.
B)plunging breakers.
C)spilling breakers.
D)surf.
E)swells.

Question 22

Constructive interference results in larger waves while destructive interference produces:

A)capillary waves.
B)rouge waves.
C)smaller waves.
D)swells.
E)tsunamis.

Question 23

The ratio of wave height to wavelength is called the:

A)frequency.
B)period.
C)wave height.
D)wavelength.
E)wave steepness.

Question 24

As a wave begins to feel bottom near a shoreline,its wave height:

A)decreases and steepness decreases.
B)decreases and wavelength increases.
C)increases and frequency decreases.
D)increases and wavelength decreases
E)increases and wavelength remains the same.

Question 25

A deep-water wave occurs when the water depth is equal to:

A)the fetch.
B)wave height.
C)wavelength.
D)½ of wavelength.
E)1/20 of wavelength.

Question 26

Waves that are moving faster than local wind and are sorted out be wavelength are called:

A)capillary waves.
B)constructive waves.
C)surf.
D)swell.
E)wind waves.

Question 27

An internal wave might form:

A)at a density boundary within the ocean.
B)at the boundary between the atmosphere and the ocean.
C)at the boundary between the ocean and the seafloor.
D)close to shore as it moves into shallow water.
E)only as a result of tidal activity.

Question 28

The fetch refers to:

A)a method of shoreline erosion control.
B)a type of wave-cut platform.
C)the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes.
D)the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level.
E)the distance over which wind blows without interruption.

Question 29

Storm surges are generated by intense:

A)earthquakes.
B)high-pressure systems.
C)landslides.
D)low-pressure systems.
E)thunderstorms

Question 30

Wave speed is equal to

A)wave height divided by frequency.
B)wave height divided by period.
C)wavelength divided by fetch.
D)wavelength divided by frequency.
E)wavelength divided by period.

Question 31

The speed of a shallow-water wave is proportional to:

A)water depth.
B)wave frequency.
C)wave height.
D)wave period.
E)wavelength.

Question 32

All of the following are shallow-water waves except:

A)near shore wind-generated waves.
B)surf.
C)tides.
D)tsunamis.
E)All of the above are examples of shallow-water waves.

Question 33

The time between two successive waves is called the:

A)crest.
B)frequency.
C)height.
D)period.
E)trough.

Question 34

A wave will break when:

A)distance from shore < wavelength.
B)steepness = 1:7.
C)water depth = wave height.
D)water depth = wavelength/20.
E)wavelength < wave height.

Question 35

Capillary and gravity waves are named for the:

A)dominant restoring force.
B)force that creates them.
C)rate at which they travel.
D)wave dispersion.
E)wave refraction pattern they create.

Question 36

Water waves are:

A)capillary waves.
B)longitudinal waves.
C)refracted waves.
D)orbital waves.
E)transverse waves.

Question 37

The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to:

A)wave height.
B)wave height/wavelength.
C)wavelength.
D)wavelength/wave period.
E)wave period.

Question 38

The height of a wave depends upon

A)fetch.
B)fetch and wind speed.
C)fetch,wind duration,and wind speed.
D)wind duration.
E)wind duration and wind speed.

Question 39

A tsunami is considered to be a:

A)capillary wave.
B)deep-water wave.
C)reflected wave.
D)refracted wave
E)shallow water wave.

Question 40

Waves converge on headlands due to:

A)constructive interference.
B)destructive interference.
C)wave diffraction.
D)wave reflection.
E)wave refraction.

Question 41

Standing waves may be caused by:

A)constructive interference.
B)destructive interference.
C)wave diffraction.
D)wave reflection.
E)wave refraction

Question 42

If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride,what type of wave should he or she look for?

A)gravity waves
B)plunging breakers
C)spilling breakers
D)surf
E)swells

Question 43

Which of the following from earliest to latest represents the typical wave formation?

A)sea,surf,swell
B)sea,swell,surf
C)surf,swell,sea
D)surf,sea,swell
E)swell,sea,surf

Question 44

A tsunami may result from:

A)a large deep-water wave.
B)a storm surge.
C)an intense storm.
D)constructive wave interference.
E)tectonic activity on the seafloor.

Question 45

Rogue waves tend to occur:

A)in areas where wind belts converge.
B)In coastal areas where the ocean depth rapidly decreases.
C)in upwelling zones.
D)only in the southern ocean below 60ºS latitude.
E)where storm waves move against strong surface currents.