As a wave approaches the shoreline and enters shallower water,energy and water move forward causing the water to rise and cascade down from the wave crest as a breaker.These waves are called
A)tidal waves.
B)swells.
C)waves of translation.
D)waves of transition.

Question

Quizplus · Accepted Answer

Waves that approach the shoreline and enter shallower water are called waves of translation. As they move forward, energy and water cause the water to rise and cascade down from the wave crest as a breaker. Tidal waves are waves caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and sun, and do not necessarily involve shoreline dynamics. Swells are long, rolling waves that are generated by distant storms, and are not directly involved in the shoreline wave-breaking process. Waves of transition is not a commonly used term in oceanography or coastal science.

As a Wave Approaches the Shoreline and Enters Shallower Water,energy