Plunging breakers develop where the bottom profile of the coast is steep.

Name: Plunging breakers develop where the bottom profile of the coast is steep.
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Plunging breakers, also known as barrel waves, occur when waves break abruptly or "plunge" onto a steep bottom profile, such as a beach with a steep slope or a rocky coastline. In contrast, spilling breakers occur on flatter bottoms, where the wave energy is dissipated more gradually as the wave breaks and spills over.

Plunging Breakers Develop Where the Bottom Profile of the Coast