Wind caused waves undergo changes when they move into shallow water near the shoreline.Friction with the floor of the shallow water results in the orbits of the water molecules at the bottom of the wave to become more _________.

Question

Quizplus · Accepted Answer

When waves move into shallow water, the friction with the sea floor causes the orbits of the water molecules at the bottom of the wave to become more elliptical, as the bottom part of the wave slows down while the top part continues at the same speed, leading to this change in shape.

Wind Caused Waves Undergo Changes When They Move into Shallow