Swell is more regular than waves in the wind-generated area because
A) waves have been sorted by dispersion.
B) some small waves have been damped out by friction.
C) packets of swell are all at the same depth at the same time.
D) waves have been sorted by dispersion and some small waves have been damped out by friction.
E) waves have been sorted by dispersion, some small waves have been damped out by friction, and packets of swell are all at the same depth at the same time.

Question

Quizplus · Accepted Answer

Swell is more regular than wind-generated waves because it has undergone a sorting process due to dispersion, where waves of different wavelengths travel at different speeds, and because smaller waves have been reduced or eliminated by friction, leading to a more uniform wave pattern.

Swell Is More Regular Than Waves in the Wind-Generated Area