Anyone who has ever gone swimming in heavy surf will tell you that if a wave is about to crash over you,the best thing to do is dive down,under the wave.Why does this keep you from being swept up in the wave,like being in a washing machine?
A)You dive into the base of the zone of circular motion associated with the wave.
B)You dive below the shoreward moving part of the elliptical particle motion of the wave.
C)You dive into the rip current,which will carry you out to sea.
D)You get carried sideways by a longshore current,which is better than being beaten up by the breaking wave.

Question

Quizplus · Accepted Answer

When a wave approaches and breaks, it creates an elliptical particle motion that includes a shoreward-moving part. By diving down below this shoreward-moving part, you are out of the way of the strongest force of the wave, and it will pass harmlessly over you. Choosing choice A or C would not necessarily help you avoid being swept up in the wave, and choice D is not a recommended strategy for dealing with heavy surf.

Anyone Who Has Ever Gone Swimming in Heavy Surf Will